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A significant high pressure system arrived this week and it looks like the
good weather will prevail until at least the middle of next week. All of
the snow from the mid August storm has melted off, and the mountains from
the front ranges through to the west slopes of the Columbias are in bare
and dry conditions.
Ridge climbs and alpine rock routes are good objectives right now. Pure
rock routes in Roger's Pass, the Bugaboos, Jasper, the Louise Group, and
ridge climbs like the SE Ridge of Victoria and the North Ridge of
Assiniboine are all in great conditions. The Bugaboo/Snowpatch Col is still
in poor shape with lots of reports of rockfall. Rather then ascending this
col many climbers are accessing Pigeon Spire and the Howsers via the
Bugaboo glacier, however this route is becoming more difficult with opening
crevasses and hard route finding on the glacier.
Most of the snow and ice routes are currently in poor conditions. Routes
like the West Face of Lefroy, the Aemmer Couloir on Temple, and Stanley
North Face have lots of gravel and embedded rocks barely frozen into the
ice. These rocks are just waiting to come screaming down on the unwary
climber. The Silverhorn route on Athabasca is one exception that was
reported still in good condition.
Strong overnight freezes have made for easy travel on snow covered glaciers
in the morning, but watch for deteriorating conditions during the heat of
the day. Glacier travel is becoming increasingly complex due to opening
crevasses and thin snow bridges. Be particularly careful just above the
snowline where the snowpack is shallowest. Another big concern is teetering
boulders on the margins of glaciers. These rocks have just recently been
exposed due to glacier recession and are still very unstable.
The theme right now is to be very aware of what is above your head, and
what can potentially come crashing down.
Brian Webster
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
He reports totally snow free conditions all the way up the east ridge with
no crampons or ice axe required.
Brad White
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.