In the past couple of days we climbed Hector, Little, Buller (K Country), the glacier descending to the north from the Pope's/Whyte col, and explored the Upper Victoria glacier to the schrund.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
Saturday, August 30, 2008
[MCR] Rockies: Lake Louise group
The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam finished today. The last 3 days were spent in the Lake Louise area with one quick foray to K-Country when the weather was really hammering on the divide on Thursday/Friday. Today, Saturday, was good weather with mostly clear and cold conditions. It seemed to have rained quite high, with minimal snow accumulations below 2800 m - just a few cm. At higher elevations there has been a significant amount of new snowfall, however we avoided loaded areas and on the windward side of the higher peaks the new snow has been stripped away making for good climbing conditions on hard snow and ice. New snow and verglas on the rocks will make a rockfall hazard as soon as it warms up.
[MCR] President, Little Yoho Valley
The last two days have been light rain at tree line and snowing with consistent moderate west winds in the alpine.
As reported, recent snow accumulation on lee slopes in the alpine was up to 60cm or more in wind effected areas and forming wind slab.
Yesterday we noticed some new large cornice development at ridge top and 2 size 2 slab avalanches 50cm deep out of the higher steep exposed terrain on the north side of the President and Vice President.
Cheers
Mark Stewart
ACMG MG
Friday, August 29, 2008
[MCR] Mountain Condition summary for the South Coast of BC. Aug 28th 08
Mountain Condition Summary for the South Coast Aug 28/08
Well conditions this past week have been wet to say the least. I think it's safe to say that everything is wet at the moment.
The forecast for the long weekend looks like things should start to improve Friday night and keep on getting better through Monday.
>From my observations around the Whistler area there is no new snow in the alpine below 3000m (not may peaks above this hight anyway). This means that this weekend may actually not be a bad time to get out in the hills while your waiting for the rock in Squamish to dry off.
If your venturing above 3000m were there may be new snow that has accumulated you will want to be careful of all those hidden crevasses and wind loaded slopes.
It may also be a good time to try out all those south facing alpine rock routes you have always wanted to try. Some of these are routes such as Ashlu, Habrich, Yak, Les Cornes (anderson river group) and the south buttress of Joffre.
Also it sounds as though there are complications for the approach into the Cerise creek area. The logging road approach is currently being deactivated or worked on so the bride a few Kilometer up is gone. This will mean that you should start from the regular winter/ summer trail-head. As well the last logging road bridge over cerise creek just before you get to the old parking area has been removed and replaced with a log. I haven't seen this but I hear that its a bit "sporty" so maybe give your self a bit of extra time to get in.
Have fun, Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] 2 fatal on Mt athabasca, N glacier normal route -avalanche-
from Mt athabasca Thursday night. Investigation led to observing a rope
leading into a large crevasse filled with avalanche debris. Poor weather,
bad flying conditions, and loss of daylight forced rescue team to revisit
the site this morning (Friday). Located two individuals buried 1.5-2m in
the bottom of the crevasse by mid-morning. On-site investigation revealed
the crown was 40-80cm thick, ~150m wide and ~300m long, size 2.5. The
avalanche occurred sometime between 0930hrs to 1400hrs. The area was
unobserveable for this period. The condition was new snow on old frozen old
snow. See attached picture for exact location of incident. This SAR
response can be attributed to a guided party who had observed the climbers
earlier in the day going along the ramp, then noting that an avalanche had
occurred sometime during the day, and following up with a visit to the
information center staff to report his observations. We appreciate this
type of commitment by the mountain community to take the time to report
conditions and observations to Parks staff at the Icefields center. Tx all.
Also noted this a.m. a size ~3 icefall to the left of the ramp off the nose
of the silverhorn.
With the fresh snow this week, winds, and improving temperatures this
weekend, parties should be observant for potential slab conditions along
their route selections.
be safe.
(See attached file: slide on athabasca aug 28 002.jpg)
Garth Lemke
Public Safety Warden
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Garde de parc, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.
[MCR] Columbia icefields
Just back from the Columbia icefields, Climbed Athabaska on the 26th via the N glacier ramp. Temps were cool and the new snow was bonding well. There was about 25 to 30cm of new snow on the ramp which seemd to be bonding fairly well.
On the evening of the 27th it was very windy all night long and we received a little more snow, on the 28th we climbed A2. On the Boundry glacier I did a hand shear and had easy results down 10cm, 10 cm windslab. Many crevasses are hidden by the new snow and wind which makes route finding interesting. Latter that day we witnessed the avalanche that was reported on the N glacier Ramp on Athabaska. Size 2, 300m long, up to 1m deep and 60 to 80 wide.
With the new snow available for transport and the wind and more snow as of today things will be getting interesting up high on lee aspects.
Be cautious and have fun
Cheers
Todd Craig, MG
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report for the Columbia and Rocky Mountains
This week has seen a change from summer conditions into more fall like
conditions with a series of storms bringing light amounts of snow to most
of the Columbia and Rocky Mountain ranges. Snow levels have dropped to
around 2800m and most high alpine rock routes have a fair bit of fresh
snow and will take several days of sunny weather to get back into shape.
conditions with a series of storms bringing light amounts of snow to most
of the Columbia and Rocky Mountain ranges. Snow levels have dropped to
around 2800m and most high alpine rock routes have a fair bit of fresh
snow and will take several days of sunny weather to get back into shape.
Continued unsettled weather is forecast meaning that lower elevation rock
routes, south facing routes, and the front ranges climbs are the most
likely to be in good shape for the weekend.
The cooler conditions have resulted in better climbing conditions on
alpine snow and ice routes as lowering freezing levels are reducing
rockfall potential and firming up the snowfall from last week.
With the strong winds and new storm snow, instabilities on lee aspects are
developing and are a hazard to watch out for over the coming couple of
days, especially at higher elevations or if we do get a period of warm
weather. As an example, a size 2 avalanche was reported yesterday on the
north side ("Ramp Route") on Mount Athabasca.
At higher elevations the crevasses are becoming lightly covered by the new
snow. A little extra diligence is required in some areas to pick your way
through areas with recent snow accumulations or as you near the edges of
crevasses.
Reports from the Bugaboos have folks finding a few things to climb in the
Crescent Towers but the higher rock routes will need some sunny weather to
come back into shape.
In Rogers Pass snow levels were down to the Uto-Sir Donald Col. There may
be some good options on south facing routes or glacier routes for the
weekend.
In the main ranges of the Rockies expect to find 5-20cm of recent snow
from the last several days with the snow line down to about 2800m and a
dusting of new snow below this on north aspects. Exposed high alpine areas
have had redistribution of snow to form slabs a metre or more thick on the
lee aspects.
The front ranges of the Rockies so far are remaining dry with good
climbing on Eisenhower, Louis, Yam etc. Expect some cooler temperatures
and a dusting of snow on true N aspects.
Still lots of great climbing to be had out there, enjoy the weekend!
Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
403.678.8336(cell) or 403.760.0887(home)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
[MCR] Perrin Route, Mt Little
Climbed to the Colgan Hut via the Perrin Route yesterday, August
27th. There is a new handline on the second rockband, my thump
testing, by hand, and tapping by hammer led me to conclude that the
topmost bolt has been drilled into a loose block and I suspect that
it will pull out at some point, be cautious.
27th. There is a new handline on the second rockband, my thump
testing, by hand, and tapping by hammer led me to conclude that the
topmost bolt has been drilled into a loose block and I suspect that
it will pull out at some point, be cautious.
New snow on the crux rockband and it was tricky getting to the chain.
If I had that 10 meters to climb again I would haul my pack once
anchored into the chain.
August 28th, it was snowing and blowing up there. No Mt Fay today, we
climbed Mt Little, and given that it felt like winter Little was more
than enough of a climb. Small wind slabs forming at ridgeline on the
east aspect.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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