[MCR] Howson Range (Smithers/Terrace)

The Howson Range is currently blessed with about 280 cm HS (height of snow above the ground) at treeline. The top 60 cm is low-density storm snow from the past couple of weeks of cold storming. The snowpack appears wellsettled with little in the way of wind effect into the alpine. Stability tests and ski cutting have not identified any significant concerns regarding stability right now. That said there is a significant temperature gradient in the upper snowpack promoting facetting, and a huge quantity of available snow for transport if the wind picks up.

Excellent skiing from the top of Solitaire's "ski summit" today right to the Burnie Glacier Chalet.

The Howson Range is a rugged and heavily glaciated area with superb skiing, and is located 75 km due south of Gitwangat (aka Kitwanga). See attached photos.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

[MCR] Guinness Gulley

Hello,

 

Climbed the route today with Yamnuska's Ice Evolution. The first pitch is quite thin and also delaminated in a few spots. The first good gear that I found was about 10 feet from the top of the pitch....harder than usual. Also of note, below the final pitch there was a slab (30-40cm) formed from the sluff's coming off the rocks, this was sitting on facets and depth hoar and gave clean easy shears. Something to think about if you are heading up to the climbs above or into terrain with bigger consequences.

 

Enjoy!

 

Jesse de Montigny

ACMG Ski Guide

ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Reality Check, Ski Smithers

The ice is thick, but brittle and the final pillar is very fat and
bulging. It is solid for the grade at the moment. Climbers might
consider moving the top rope anchor to a live tree some metres further
up. The access is in good shape. The road to the base of the chair is
ploughed and the gate is open.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] The Professor Falls

Climbed the route this morning. It is in good shape, but running with water on the first 3 pitches. You can stay dry by climbing the far right side on pitch 1 and the far left on pitch 2. It gets drier the higher you go, and the final pitch has seen some traffic, it is dry with good hooks. Keep in mind that although the wet ice offers easy swinging, placements must be treated with caution, and the chandelier surface ice must be cleared away to get good screws underneath. The road is in good shape for biking.

Have a safe New Year!

Jason Billing

ACMG Assistant Rock Guide

[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] auto-responder

Hi folks,

I just wanted to apologize if you are receiving auto-responder messages from Tom Wolfe, our MCR moderator, when you post or subscribe to the MCR. He is away on holiday until January 11 and, unfortunately, we have no access to his server. We will rectify this after he returns.

 

I wish you all a safe and wonderful winter.

 

Peter Tucker
Executive Director
Association of Canadian Mountain Guides
ed@acmg.ca
403-949-3587
403-689-4324 (cell)

[MCR] On Holidays Dec 22-Jan 11

Thanks for your email. I am away until Jan 11 and
will be unable to respond to your email until then.

Happy Holidays!

Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.