[MCR] Mnt Tupper

With the spell of good weather continuing , we again visited Rogers Pass and climbed the ‘Jones Route’ (western most buttress) on the south face of Mnt Tupper.  Parked at the Hermit parking area, then scrambled to the base of the buttress in two hours.  Unlike Mt. McDonald a few days earlier, the snow in the gullies on the south aspects is disappearing quickly and what remains was too firm to allow for good step kicking.

 

The route itself consisted of 16ish pitches of up to 5.9 climbing, blessed with a healthier coating of lichen than most routes could ever dream of!  A standard rack up to a #3 Camelot and rock shoes were definitely appreciated.   Although it had a few redeeming pitches, in hindsight, overall not a route I could recommend.  Beautiful to look at, but hard to establish any sense of climbing ‘flow’.  Put it on your ‘B’ list when you’re looking for something different and expect a full day with an early start.

 

Descent down the normal West Ridge, then over to Hermit Meadows and down the trail.  Snowline is now just above the campground, with the tent platforms pretty much melted out.   

 

Cheers,

Paul Norrie

ACMG Mountain Guide

[MCR] Ipsoot Mt. S Coast Mountains

Went up the N glacier of Ipsoot Mt. (20Km north of Whistler) today.  Got dropped off at a lake at 6000' and took a middle line up the glacier to the summit.  Found sun cups and generally easy travel to about 7200' - here the snow gradually changed sloppy with a soft non sun cupped top layer that made for 20cm foot penetration.  This soft snow lasted to the summit at 8200'.  The snow depth at 7000' (in a flat bowl, low wind effect) was 2 meters.  The crevasses were quite saggy and lots are opening up. Lots of ice showing in winded areas.  A light southerly breeze was a great airconditioner during this beautiful day with no clouds.

 

Dave Sarkany

 

SKi Guide

[MCR] North Ridge Mt Stephen

June 27th, accelerated start up the spine of the left hand berm/morraine
to rockband just left of single waterfall. Good 50 m cable to pull on
here (a Canadian via ferrata! relic of the mining days?), watch for burs
and metal slivers. Up ledges left of the drainage to a cliff where the
drainage is split into two with two waterfalls. Easy and quick traverse
right (unseen seracs above so hustle) to a treed shoulder leading up to
the right skyline and the big bench right of the glacier. Did 4 or 5 of
the upper ridge pitches to a number of bivy ledges, one of which is the
big one, and the one that we slept on, snow may be gone from here in
awhile.

June 28th, long day up the long ridge, 6 am start to 8pm finish on the
summit and a 2nd comfortable bivy. Numerous passages of wet ice and
slushy snow up high. Started a number of sloppy surface sluffs, but the
snow underlying was good mature summer stuff. 2-4 icescrews would have
been helpful, we took none (all the ice and snow could go away with
another week or two of summer).

June 29th, descended the South ridge to the col above the North glacier
with one 50m rappel and one 15m one. Walked down snow slopes into the
remote and lovely valley behind Mt Stephen. Stayed high riding skier's
right treeline, then tending right once in the trees to eventually meet
the Fossil Bed trail (easy bushwack actually). This is a different
descent than the SW ridge written in Selected Alpine which looked to be
tedious with a thick icing of snow sitting of the ridge.

Long route, grade VI for most parties. Much choss overall. I think that
the E ridge of Mt Patterson is a similar and better route.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard, mountain guide

www.yamnuska.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] West Coast Mountain Conditions Summary - June 29, 2006

 

 

This is a Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the South Coast Mountains region (From Vancouver to Bella Coola).  Below is a 7 days summary, as well as an outlook for the next 7 days. This was compiled on June 29^th, 2006.

 

7 Day Summary

The last week's hot weather is marking a transition between late spring and early summer. The snow pack is very rapidly melting and compacting into an early summer pack.

 

Temperatures:  During the warmest period this week freezing levels reached 4000m and the treeline temperatures peaked in the low 20's. 

 

The snow line varies with the lowest and most snow being close to the ocean and then less snow inland. On average the snow line seems to be around treeline – 1400- 1700 metres - depending on aspect. Expect to encounter snow patches a few hundred meters below treeline anywhere but on the southern aspects; here the sun has melted most of the snow in rocky terrain up to about 2000m. 

-One report from Vancouver Island had the snow line at around 900 – 1000 meters, with a "fat" snow pack of 2 meters at 1200m. 

-Whistler Mountain has no snow left on their winter Pig Alley plot at 1535m. But on the glaciers above there is an average of two – three meters of snow.

-In the Callaghan Valley there is 2.5 m covering the flat valley floor at 1350 meters.

-In contrast to all this- just NE of Hope, in the Anderson River area, a report mentions only snow patches high up and under rock faces.

 

Glaciers are still well covered but crevassed areas almost everywhere are starting to show prominent sags. You can bet that with the hot temperatures the crevasse roofs are becoming soft and fragile. Many slots are just starting to open. Areas that normally have a thin winter snow pack are in, some cases, melting away to expose crevasses and blue ice.

 

Avalanches:  It seems the late spring deep slab climax avalanche cycle ended a while back. The cornices have mostly fallen off but beware of the odd cornice perched and just waiting for a little more heat and melting which will loosen the bonds and drop load.  The warm temperatures have created sluffs during the heat of the day on all aspect. 

 

Rock Fall:  Only one fairly large rock fall was reported  (on the Blackcomb Glacier) but one can assume lots more has happened in the last week.

 

General travel Conditions:  The snow was quite soft almost all day during the most intense part of the heat wave this past week.  During this period any nighttime crust melted away by 9am and resulted in 20cm of isothermal wet mush.  Sloppy conditions for walking!  However reports of steeper faces sluffing to glacier ice might be of interest to those wishing a clean steeper climb.  The rock ridges and buttresses on south facing aspects looks dry and quite good for climbing.    

A MCR posted on June 23^rd shows photos of the mountains in the Duffy Lake area – expect a fair bit of snow melt since then. 

Many of the summer only maintained roads are passable. The Hurley Pass road was ploughed a few weeks ago. In the valleys during the height of the heat wave the creeks and rivers where running high and fast.

 

Outlook:

Weather Forecast: Environment Canada calls for continued warm tempratures for its 5 day forecast; all due to the high pressure that is maintaining warm temps and light winds.  Freezing levels are forecast to be around 3200 m – 4100m (warmest days are late in the weekend).

One thing to note: The UV index is 10+ (or Very High) in the alpine.  This is a bit above normal and sunburns happen surprisingly fast.

 

Mountain Travel:  Expect conditions to very similar to the above summary as long as the weather stays warm and dry. Another spell of even hotter temps predicted for the weekend should make for fine mountain travel conditions. But bear in mind that the warm conditions will break down nighttime crusts quickly in the AM. We are still in a transition of seasons and all that melting snow = above average rockfall/sluff/cornice fall/ avalanche hazards.    If your traveling on glaciers look out for sags and crevasses especially in areas with a thin snowpack. Take lots of water if you are climbing in Squamish!

 

The information for this summary was gathered from the Whistler – Duffy Lake, Van Island, and Hope areas.  Keep in mind that conditions at higher elevations, such as in the Waddington Range will be different – likely cooler and more spring like.

 

Have a great Canada Day Long weekend.  Play safe and have fun.

 

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide  

 

 

[MCR] North Cascades

I just spent a fine week in the North Cascades.

 

Mt Shuksan- Price Glacier June 21st-22nd.

 

Access and approach in good shape as explained in "Alpine Select" except the bridge is out over the deep and cold Nooksack creek. Brrrrrr and a bit serious. Route was in great shape, snow just getting soft at 6am on the east facing bits. We climbed 120m up a couloir on the right side of Nooksack tower and then went hard right just below an obvious rock step. Good traverse across to the exit slopes but you still have to walk below some BIG seracs. One big unexpected crevasse to cross just before reaching flat ground. Fisher chimneys route in excellent shape. The Price glacier is a SERIOUS place so don't go unless you are really willing to take the risks, feel you can move fast and have perfect conditions.

 

Mt. Baker North Ridge June 23rd and 24th.

 

More great snow and ice conditions. Access and approach as in "Alpine Select" in perfect shape. Bivies are plentiful and new toilets at the Hogsbacks area.

We used the right hand approach to the ridge. Could be some loose rock showing soon but last weekend it was very snowcovered. One pitch of very firm 75 degree glacier ice then another easier pitch. Good ice anchors for those pitches but hard snow everywhere else if you need to belay. Walk around big crevasse below summit on the left. Coleman-Denning in good shape but some BIG,SCARY seracs below Colfax peak are a considerable threat on the traverse from the camp. Early morning rock hard snow on the Coleman-Denning is a bit of a concern with lots of peole wobbling around in crampons in the area.

 

Slesse NE buttress June 26th-27th.

 

Access is good, however there is a newer trail than in "Alpine Select" From the parking lot walk a short ways (I guess 20 mins but sorry, didn't measure it) up the "4wd road" looking for a well flagged and very good, "new looking" trail descending to the river. It obviously hooks up with the Slesse memorial trail and is in good shape to the wooded knoll.(check in the Chiliwack info centre for the local hiking pamphlet-it has the beta)

The Bypass Glacier is a bit of a mess right now. We had to do some sporty climbing on hard neve up and down and around some huge glide cracks on the right hand side of the glacier/snowfield to reach the buttress. It won't get any better until it is all gone. A truly terrifying place to be in the heat of the day.

NE butress is in great shape. Lots of snow at base of upper 4th class section if you decide to bivy. 

We descended via Crossover pass. A bit more complicated and bushy than I was led to believe but it does work. Lots of steep snow and grass at present, maybe there is more of a trail later in the summer?

 

Generally, I was pleasantly suprised at the firm nature of the snowpack every where I went. Outside of the direct sun the snow travel was awesome. I wouldn't go anywhere slopey and snowy without crampons for awhile after what I saw this week. Daytime heating and direct sunlight were creating mush and some wet avalanches. Rock routes are in great shape except where wet from snow melt.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide 

[MCR] Mt. Louis, Gmoser route

Climbed the Gmoser route on Mt. Louis yesterday.

 

Just a reminder, there are now ‘ring’ bolted anchors every 60 meters until you reach the Kain route. Keep an eye out for them as we missed the first few sets.

The 5.8 pitch is a solid pitch that is best done with rock shoes. Climbs nicely as one 60 meter pitch as opposed to breaking it into two pitches as “Selected Alpine Climbs” recommends.

 

The most notable thing about the day was the horrendous Mosquitoes on the walk in and out of the mountain. I would highly recommend repellent.

 

Rob Owens

 

ACMG Ass. Alpine Guide

[MCR] Mnt Cheops and Mnt. MacDonald

Taking advantage of the clear skies, snow in the gully’s and long days, we ventured on to the S.E. ridge of Mnt. Cheops and the N.W. of MacDonald. 

 

On the 25^th we scrambled up from the Roger’s Pass summit directly towards the Napolean Spur, then followed the S.E. ridge to the summit of Cheops.  The route provides great views of the surrounding peaks, and even better bush whacking!  Only technical climbing was up and over the Spur.  (5.2, 100m)  5 hours up.  Descent towards Balu Pass, then enjoyed a quick snow descent down to the Balu hiking trail. 3 hours down.

 

On the 26^th we crossed over to the other side of the highway and explored the N.W. ridge of MacDonald.  We started at the base of the buttress and then simply followed the crest to the top, essentially a slightly longer and slightly harder variation of the Davis/Bay route.  20 pitches of roped travel 5.8 and several sections of exposed scrambling.  Descent via S.W. ridge which involved mostly scrambling and then two rappels (or exposed down climbing) to the top of the Herman Couloir –climber’s left variation.  Step kicking down the snow couloir led us in to the main basin, followed by 1300m of perfect boot skiing!  An excellent route!  15 hours.

 

As a side note, Sir Donald is dry to mid elevation, but is still very snowy above.  Looks like it will be another week or two before it’s in condition, assuming the hot weather continues.

 

Enjoy the early summer alpine,

Paul Norrie

ACMG Mountain Guide.