[MCR] Green Gully, Mt. Hunter, Rockies

Climbed Green Gully today which is located on the west boundary of Yoho Park, above the Trans Canada Highway.  Park at a pullout (road) , just west of the Yoho Park sign.  Walk up the right edge of a clearcut, onto the boundary cut line and follow it (sort of) to the route.  Its in a deep gully in a rockband - scope from the Beaverfoot road.

Lots of short steps that were wet and thin but easily climbable.  One pitch that was about grade 3 maybe, but otherwise lots of easy grade 2/3 steps with hiking between.  Probably climbed about 10 steps like this.

10 cm fresh low density snow in the area and a total of about 20 cm in the forest leading up to the route.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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[MCR] Reality Check

This climb is now in good shape with several lines that go at grades IV
and V. We put a rope sling around two good trees at the top so there is
an anchor for the season.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Kananaskis Country Beacon Basin

I response to a few question we have received I wanted to let everyone know that the Beacon Basin training park in Kananaskis Country (located at Burstall Pass trailhead) is not set up yet to do insufficient snow cover.  As soon as it starts to snow more (hopefully soon) we will have it up and running for public use.  Information about when it is operational will be posted on the Kananaskis Country Avalanche Bulletin Page so stay tuned.

 

Mike Koppang

Kananaskis Country Public Safety

403-678-5508 x223

 

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[MCR] Whistler/Blackcomb near country

We've been teaching an avalanche course the past few days based in Whistler. Below 1900 m we don't have enough snow to avalanche. Above that elevation there are isolated pockets with above threshold snow depth in areas with a rough ground surface. On the glaciers and other smooth ground we are seeing 75-100 cm of snow. The snowpack consists of a series of crusts with some weaknesses between them but our tests indicate it is quite stable. We have not seen any avalanches in the past few days.

Travel conditions are dust on breakable crust. Below 1800 m you are probably going to be walking. You cannot access snow covered terrain without the lifts.

Think snow!

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Rogers pass ski conditions

No technical info here, but we went up for a quick burn a bit above Balu pass towards peak 8812. Surprisingly the skiing above 6000 ft was EXCELLENT! Really! The groups coming down the south bowl above looked like they were enjoying themselves too. At around 7000ft there was 20+ cms of new snow with no wind effect, above 7000 there looked to be 10cms more than this0. Below 6000ft full body armor is suggested , along with ice skates for the trail. Have Fun. Craig

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
craigskibum@yahoo.com
cell 604 902 0296

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Glacier Gulch

John Kelson and I climbed the Right Hand Falls in Glacier Gulch today.
After plus 7 degrees and heavy rain on Sunday, temperatures have dropped
to a more congenial -9. The ice is still a bit thin in places and there
is a lot of water running, but it's climbable at a comfortable grade III
with little fear of avalanches. The right hand variant is thin, wet and
has a lot of daggers. The other lines are almost there.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Goat Traverse and Yam Area (1 Dec)

Out climbing in the Yamnuska area today where I found some fairly good rock conditions (for December). For those tired of lining up for limited ice or root skiing while we wait for winter to properly arrive, here's what I saw. 

The clouds and precip clogging the valley around Canmore throughout the day were blown off the Goat Area by strong-to-gale force winds at ridge-top, so there was only the slightest dusting late in the day. Since the system was still parked to west of the range-front at day's end, with any luck these conditions might linger for a bit.  

Goat Peaks Traverse

In spite of the somewhat plastered look of all the upper east faces, the traverse across the Goat Peaks was surprisingly dry and snow-free with a little routefinding. Only the final 50m descending to the col at the Yam shoulder had unavoidable snow (no ice) and was trickier downclimbing.  If you haven't done it, this traverse is a good "fitness" day and although mostly a lot of scrambling, the second half has enough exposed/techy ridge bits and routefinding to keep the climbing interesting. Round trip from Graymont is 5-10 hours via Yam (incl. ~7km on the road).

Coire Dubh

From a (good) distance, the bottom ice looked almost 'in', but the top is definitely still a rock climb.

Yamnuska

Climbing on the west end of Yam was snow and ice-free and quite pleasant (again, for Dec.) The backside (what I saw of it) and west descent trail were snow-free, and the rest of the face looked quite dry.

Carl Johnston

ACMG Rock Guide