[MCR] Bugaboo Road OPEN-ish

I hope this is the last one!

The road is open but you can expect delays up to 5 hours until mid week as they still need to replace a few culverts.  It should be passable most of the time but they will have to close it temporarily at least two more times to get the job done.  There are a few rough spots but most cars should be able to make through with some careful driving.  The main issue is rocks sticking out high enough to damage the oil pan on low clearance vehicles.

Cheers,
Marc Piché
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Victoria S Ridge

Adding to Lilla's post, I climbed the S Ridge of Vic yesterday, July 20. The entire ridge is dry except for the sickle, which was soft enough to kick steps in for the most part although we did use crampons there. Although we had a fair bit of sun it was cold all day, +1 at 4 am and with a max of only +7 during the day.

Lefroy is dirtyish ice in the upper half. Climbable but not terribly inviting.

This morning at Abbott's it was whiteout, strong west wind, +3 and horizontal rain. Beautiful afternoon on Rundle Ridge though!

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] sir sandford hourglass

to add to my previous post,

 

 We also got a close look at the hourglass on our descent and saw that it had a large 'shrund, dirty ice and a fair bit of water running on it. Made us happy that we bypassed it on fun rock climbing.

 

Andrew

Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org> wrote:

Just back from a week in the Sir Sandford group with Jim Gudjonson and 3 clients. 

 

On July 16th we climbed Sir Sandford from a high camp on the west side of the col at 8300ft. We did a variation of the NW ridge bypassing the hourglass to the right (south). This was done by continuing on the sandy traverse ledge beyond slabs to a broken area with 2 distinct Quartz dykes. 2 pitches up to 5.4 gains ledges that lead to the glacier. Care should be taken to not traverse too far right and expose yourself to the serac hazard. The rest of the route was in fine shape.

 

 We also got on NE ridge of Citadel, East ridge of Silvertip and did the traverse of Palisade ridge from Palisade Pass to the cairn Hut. All routes were in great shape with high rivers being the only inconvenience.

 

Lots of fuel in the Great Cairn hut but no mouse proof container.

 

Enjoy them Hills,

 

Andrew Langsford

 

Asst. Ski/Alpine Guide

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[MCR] Sir Sandford group

Just back from a week in the Sir Sandford group with Jim Gudjonson and 3 clients. 

 

On July 16th we climbed Sir Sandford from a high camp on the west side of the col at 8300ft. We did a variation of the NW ridge bypassing the hourglass to the right (south). This was done by continuing on the sandy traverse ledge beyond slabs to a broken area with 2 distinct Quartz dykes. 2 pitches up to 5.4 gains ledges that lead to the glacier. Care should be taken to not traverse too far right and expose yourself to the serac hazard. The rest of the route was in fine shape.

 

 We also got on NE ridge of Citadel, East ridge of Silvertip and did the traverse of Palisade ridge from Palisade Pass to the cairn Hut. All routes were in great shape with high rivers being the only inconvenience.

 

Lots of fuel in the Great Cairn hut but no mouse proof container.

 

Enjoy them Hills,

 

Andrew Langsford

 

Asst. Ski/Alpine Guide

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