[MCR] Blackcomb backcountry/ Spearman peak

Spent Monday out guiding in the Blackcomb backcountry.
Wanted to go up the route "29 forever" on Huesume
buttress, however the two small snowpatches were still
there and letting a fair bit of water seep down the
rest of the route. All other rock routes look to be in
very good (dry) conditions. Because of the technical
nature of the other routes we went up the "high feeder
chute" at the right side of the buttress then
continued straight up mid 5th steps to the top. This
worked out fairly well however there is a bit of loose
rock in places, its best to stay on the ridges and out
of the gullies. From the top we continued along the NW
ridge of Spearhead peak. The Ridge is free of snow. If
you wish to keep on the aesthetic ridge crest and not
drop down on the North ledges a few finger to 1.5
inch pieces are useful. There are no open holes on the
Blackcomb glacier however there are a few holes and
sags on the Spearhead glacier. The Spearhead traverse
still has tones of snow an I'm sure the traverse is
very doable on skis. Travel condition on Monday were
not the best with shin to knee deep penetrating even
at 8:30 am. Take care, Craig McGee, IFMGA

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for June 10th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains, issued June 10th, 2006.

 

Mountain travel conditions are generally more like we would expect for early july than mid june. Widespread snowcover begins around 2700m(9000ft) and the whole snowpack up to at least 3350m(11,000ft) has undergone numerous melt freeze cycles and is in late spring/early summer condition. We have no recent reports from above 3350m(11,000ft) but I would suspect it is still feels like winter high on all but the south sides of Mt. Robson, Clemenceau, Columbia etc.

 

Access and approach trails for the Bugaboos, Rogers Pass, Lake Louise group, Columbia Icefields etc are generally in good condition. Rivers and creeks are still high and there may be lots of unrepaired trail damage from the winter but snow should not be a big issue, outside of old avalanche deposits, below 2500m's.

 

Alpine rock routes on all except North faces and especially east of the divide in the Rockies are in good early season conditions. Some examples would be from Castle Mtn east to Yamnuska in the Bow Valley, the Colin range in Jasper,  Mt Tupper and Macdonald west face in Rogers Pass and Snowpatch and Marmolata in the Bugaboos. These should all dry out quickly if and when the rain stops.

Examples of routes still buried in snow would be the East Ridge of Edith Cavell, North face of Mt. Temple, NW arete on Sir Donald, and the NE ridge of Bugaboo spire.

 

Glacier travel and snow and ice climbing conditions are generally poor for this weekend due to the present warm and wet pacific storm. Condition will remain poor until we get back into a period of colder temperatures. As long as we don't get any signifigant new snow out of this storm, snow conditions could quickly become excellent with one good cold, clear night. However, we can still expect another cycle of falling cornices, failing snow bridges, wet snow avalanches and rockfall when the alpine snowpack next meets the afternoon heat under a hot june sun.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide 

 

 

[MCR] Squamish Chief | Apron | Papoose

Two things to note around Squamish.

 

Papoose: Hair Pin - There is a hanger missing on the first pitch just before the anchors.  The bolt is still intact.  It would be useful if someone brought a hanger and nut up there.

 

Apron: Sparrow -  There is a microwave size block / flake that is perched on the last pitch of Sparrow.  Situated 3 meters above the last gear / small tree belay, 55m from the top of Broadway Ledge.  The loose flake / block has some very sharp edges.

 

 

Roger Sarrasin

ACMG Rock Guide

 

[MCR] AA Col, Mt. Athabasca, Columbia Icefields, June 5

Out on a Snow and Ice Long Weekend Course with Yamnuska and climbed the AA col route on Mt. Athabasca today.

 

+6 in the parking lot at 0400 but good travel both on the glacier and the steep slopes up to the col/plateau on Mt. Athabasca.  Bergschrund not a big issue yet, and the slopes above had slide previously and refrozen into a supportive crust.  Below this crust the snow was quite wet and soft.

 

Very strong winds and a few cm's of new snow were forming some soft slabs and exfoliating any exposed skin.  Lots of spindrift coming down steep gullies above 2800m.  Might find some new slabs on high N aspects to watch for...

 

Descended the way we came.  The crust on the lower glacier was just starting to break down by noon but still provided good travel. 

 

Other stuff:

Snow bridges lower down (2500m) on the N. Glacier below Mt. Athabasca yesterday were quite wet/soft and weak. 

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen

A person should have wings to carry them where their dreams go, but sometimes a pair of skis makes a good substitute. -Hans Gmoser-

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[MCR] Castle Tower June 5th

Up to Castle Hut June 4th. If you haven't been there in awhile be aware
that you need one green Coleman type propane tank (465 g) for the stove
and lantern. Lots of water running in the approach gully.

June 5, Castle Tower, 1926 route. Several snow gullies to cross on Goat
Plateau, could be a problem with a freeze overnight and no ice ax. 60 m
of snow in the scree bowl half way up the route avoided on ascent by
climbing the rock rib -climbers left (rappelled down the snow on the way
down). Overall the route is dry and good to go, lots of snow seen on the
back side, still some ice on rockbound lake.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca/ icefields May 2nd and 3rd

May 2nd. Light rain most of the day to 2600m and light snow above.

 

May 3rd. Climbed Athabasca via AA col. Mix of sun and cloud, cool and strong(50-70kmh) SW winds all day. Good travel on a 5cm raincrust to 2600m and a mix of crust and old avalanche debris above that. All recent snow has been blown away on the AA route but there may be some crisp, fresh windslabs in some deep N facing gullies and low on the big North facing slopes.

 

Saw LOTS of recent and observed avalanche activity on the Banff Jasper highway south of the icefields in the afternoon heat, especially between 2400 and 2700m's.  

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Trailex.org

Hi folks:

I thought I'd share this as it's related to the MCR -- promoting safety
in the backcountry.

"Trailex" has just emerged as a grassroots initiative here in the Bow
Valley. If you're planning a climbing trip that takes you through bear
country (i.e., any climb I can think of around here!), you might like to
check it out the night before to see if there have been any recent
dangerous wildlife sightings or signs:

"Trailex is a website that allows trail users to share information about
trail safety in the Bow Valley (from Banff to Bragg Creek). The goal is
to keep humans and wildlife safe. You can view recent postings before
you choose where you want to go. Or you can post a message. Share this
website with all your friends!"

Anyone is welcome to view posts or contribute.

http://trailex.org

Regards,
Tom Wolfe

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.