[MCR] Ghost River, Alberta

Spent the last week (May 28 - June 2) in the Ghost River area. Our group arrived at the end of the monsoon rains. The logging road was very rough right from the beginning with many potholes and some deeper water runnels on the steep hills, this made for very slow driving. In contrast the 'big hill' was in great shape and much to our dismay, the first river crossing was easy with water no more than mid-tire height. We made it across just fine in a small Suzuki 4x4 and Ford 12 passenger van. The sun came out for the first time in a week, and in a few hours we counted 8 wet slab/loose snow avalanches from all aspects. Upwards of 60cm of new snow was found in the alpine on easy scrambling objectives like BlackRock mountain, and continued solar related avalanches kept us down in the valleys on the rock, and away from the summits.

There was a lot of seeping going on, but this dried out as the week progressed and we enjoyed some fine climbing on Silver Tongue Devil crag, Sentinal Wall, Wully Wall, and South Phantom Crag. As we drove out, many classic routes were looking dry such as The Wraith, Bonanza, Consolation, most of STD wall and pretty much all of South Phantom crag. Expect up to a meter of snow against the base of the cliffs that do not face south. The river crossing on the way out was still in fine shape, and the road had dried out, but was still rough.

Jason Billing
ACMG Assistant Alpine/ Assistant Ski Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] avalanche in South Rockies

I have been hoping for confirmation before sending a note but have not received anything from the horses’s mouth. However, if true this is worth noting.

 

I recently received a second hand report of an avalanche in the Bull River drainage in Cranbrook area of the South Rockies. The report indicated kayakers made a run on the river and when they returned for a second run, an avalanche had come down from above and hit the river in the meantime. This would have occurred last weekend or earlier this week. If this is correct, it would support the notion that it’s still game on in terms of avalanches and even dry valley bottoms can still be affected in some places at some times.

 

I must stress I do not have first-hand confirmation of this nor do I have any details about exact location, time, aspect, terrain feature, etc. I wonder if it’s similar to an incident reported around May 11^th in the same area. You can see a photo of the May 11^th avalanche here: http://www.avalanche.ca/uploads/gallery/5/Picture_024.jpg. I wish I could be more specific but other than a general heads up, I can’t really provide more detailed information that might help you manage this potential risk.

 

If anyone has more information about this incident, please contact me. If you know the folks involved, please encourage them to contact me or submit an incident report here: http://www.avalanche.ca/cac/bulletins/incident-reports/submit

 

 Karl Klassen – Mountain Guide/Public Avalanche Warning Service Manager

 

Canadian Avalanche Centre

P.O. Box 2759 | 110 Mackenzie Ave.

Revelstoke, BC Canada | V0E 2S0
kklassen@avalanche.ca | www.avalanche.ca |  Skype: karlklassen

Phone: 250.837.2141 ext. 227 | Mobile: 250.814.3756 | Fax: 250.837.4624

 

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 02, 2011

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Coastal Mountains issued June 02, 2011 Heads Up and Hazards! This section if for you if you are planning to go into the mountains over the next few days. Avalanche season is not over in the alpine, 20-40cm of new snow above 2000m will become moist and very reactive on Friday afternoon. Surface slides and sluffing could persist through the weekend well into next week. Forecasted warm temperatures could initiate a long delayed spring avalanche cycle. Keep an eye on what is overhead and think twice about where you set up camp. Large avalanches could reach valley bottom. Also be aware that warm temperatures will raise river levels over the weekend, make sure your tent isn't too close to the water and that you can get home if the rivers swell while you are out there. Weather 10-20mm of rain fell around the Coast today except Squamish and Hope where it was way more. The rain will ease tonight and at least 4 days of nice weather is forecast. Valley temperatures will climb to 25degrees except around the sea where they will be a few degrees colder. Freezing levels will peak between 3200-3500m during the days and drop at night. Conditions There is still 2-4 meters of snow above treeline and patchy snow still exists as low as 700m above sea level in some places. There is about 100cm of snow at the summit of the Duffy Lake road, and probably close to that on the Coquihalla. The snow is saturated and you will likely be "post holing" for most of the day. Saturday, Sunday and early into next week a crust that can support body weight is likely to develop overnight, but will break down early in the day. It's worth throwing a pair of snowshoes in your purse if you are heading into the high country. There are still cornices out there guarding the ridge tops and threatening the valleys below. Give them lots of space. Squamish rock was drying quickly until last night. The winter seeps are starting to dry out and people are climbing pretty much everything on the Apron, North Walls and Grand Wall areas. Don't get me wrong it is not September, and you will have to tape your cuffs to your wrists if you try Rock On or the Ultimate Everything. In the Bluffs and other cragging areas the climbs that are normally ascended dry are good to go, or will be by the weekend. The climbs that are normally climbed wet…well, they're good to go too! The falcon closures are in effect on the Chief and there have been many bears hanging around. Access All the trails into the alpine are still covered with snow to some degree. The more popular trails make for good travel, but early in the morning you might want crampons and late in the day you will sink to your hips if you step off the beaten path. On logging roads around the coast you will reach snow at about 900-1000m elevation east of Vancouver and south of Squamish. On the roads north of Squamish expect to reach snow at 600-800m and throughout the Coast Range roads are still blocked by avalanche debris from late winter. By my estimation it will be another 2-4 days before the dozer breaks through the Hurley pass. They are clearing the road from the north. Driving from Pemberton you can get as far as the Tenquille Lake trail around Km 18. The Upper Lillooet River FSR is ploughed (or melted out) to South Creek on the on the one side and all the way to the Meager junction on the north side. If they aren't already, they will start logging out there in the next few days. Avalanches could still reach some of the higher spurs on these roads. The west Harrison Lake road to Tippella and Port Douglas has been reopened over the last 2 months or so. Other Observations During a flight last week we observed a large avalanche cycle that had occurred in the Bridge Range and Montrose Range about 10-14 days ago. The slides extended as far south as the north end of the Pemberton icecap and east to the Icemaker area.  The slides were likely the February layer and only 1-2 meters deep. There is still lots of snow and potentially weak deeper layers that could still become active. Other than surface sluffing we saw no new avalanches in Garibaldi or the Squamish Elaho divide on that flight last Friday. Have fun out there, Conny Amelunxen ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

_______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Gooseberry 5.8 - Tunnel Mountain.

Howdy,
 
Guided Gooseberry today with Erica Roles and four good and solid British Army soldiers. Few showers mid afternoon, but other than that a fantastic day out.
 
Of note today was the excessive amount of loose rock of all sizes and varieties laying around in very precarious positions that directly threaten most of the route below.
The bottom of the 5th pitch seems like it's become quite a bit more delicate than usual, I'm guessing either due to some cleaning or recent rockfall, and the top of the same pitch has a couple of big blocks perched on the down-sloping slabs as you exit the pitch.
Tons of smaller junk hand to fist size laying around on the same ledges. The pitches above hold more of the same.
 
Not sure I'd want to be behind a party I didn't know and trust up there, or stuck lower on the route in the rain.
 
Have fun and play safe out there!
 
Mike.
 
 
Mike Trehearne
Assistant Guide - Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
E-Mail: m_trehearne@hotmail.com
Mobile: +1.403.679.8080.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 2, 2011

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 2, 2011 Spring has finally sprung in the Rocky and Columbia Mountains and continued seasonal weather looks to be on its way. However, even though there has been a significant melt of the winter snowpack over the past week we are still dealing with an above average amount of snow for this time of year - at least 150% of normal. There is still snow below treeline on some north aspects in the Banff area. Highwood Pass has 70 cm on the highway and there is snow to road level at Rogers Pass. There has not been a lot of recent reporting so if you go out into the mountains be sure to make your own observations to confirm for yourself what is going on out there. With an overnight freeze travel conditions on foot and ski are reported to be good. Freezes can be hit and miss this time of year, especially if it is a cloudy night, and parties have opted out of mountaineering objectives due to poor snow conditions. In the Columbia Icefields there have been ascents of Athabasca, A2, Boundary Peak and Wilcox. There has also been ski activity in the Moraine Lake area now that the road is open (there is still snow down to lake level). No reports of activity in the Rogers Pass area but it is still skiable from the Asulkan/Illecillewaet trailhead. The couloirs leading to Tupper and MacDonald are snowy but the climbing routes on those peaks are also snow covered and still need some time to clear. There has been a significant amount of thaw-instability avalanches due to the warm temperatures in all zones, some running into non-snow covered terrain. On the highest north aspects there has been some continued concern for winter-like slab avalanche conditions. The Silverhorn serac on Athabasca has been active. Snow bridges over creeks are weak and the waterways are flowing high and fast. More activity has been going on in the rock climbing arena. Mostly dry cragging conditions can be found at Planet X, Grassi, Back of the Lake (snow patches at the base), Spillimacheen and Revelstoke as well as many other low elevation venues. Many of the multi-pitch cliffs are still wet, such as Ha Ling and most EEOR routes. Yamnuska is dry and some of the Ghost routes have been getting climbed. Expect snow patches at the base of cliffs and on the walk-offs. The waterfall at Lake Louise is melting and avalanching so heads up when you cross below it on the way to the crag. If there is low angled terrain above your rock climb or gully descent assess if there is still snow lingering there as rockfall is likely and avalanches can still be an issue (Ghost, EEOR). Most gully and chimney features will be wet and have potential to spit rocks at this time of year. Lastly, remember that a winter and spring of freeze-thaw will have loosened some holds and fixed pitons - make sure you test them. There are lots of activities to choose from right now. Pick your sport, time it well and you should have a great time. Mark Klassen Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.