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Saturday, May 20, 2006

[MCR] Forbidden Corner Yamnuska - Danger!

Was on Forbidden Corner Thurs 18th. Be aware that on the pitch 6 (the
one you climb the loose flake to gain the webbing for protecting the
traverse to the belay) has serious loose rock waiting to come off. The
lead climber just placed his hand on it and the size of a fridge door
just pealed off. Missing me and somehow not even scratching the rope.
This rock is climbed all the time to gain that webbing and just from
looking at what's still attached. There is still more waiting to come
off. It is very easy to recognize what peeled off.

I've never posted a posting and I thought this could be important info
to pass on regarding Forbidden Corner, especially since the Assistant
Rock Training is coming up. It's apparent that winter freezing and
melting had contributed to what is stated below. This is one time that I
did not have my camera so I have no photo to show and tell.

Nick Rapaich, ARG

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

FW: [MCR] Bugaboos (fwd)

Hi Tom,
Thanks for forwarding my MCR post. I have noticed that this has happened to
every MCR post I have tried to make. What is odd though is that when you
forward it, my last name in the signature changes from Piché to Pichi. I
have also noticed that when I get those ACMG contact information
confirmation emails that my last name is listed as Pichi as well. I brought
this up with Chris and he said it was normal on his end...Is this the list
used to identify ACMG members and allow them to post?

Cheers,
Marc

-----Original Message-----
From: mcr-bounces@informalex.org [mailto:mcr-bounces@informalex.org] On
Behalf Of mcr@informalex.org
Sent: May 18, 2006 3:44 PM
To: mcr@informalex.org
Subject: [MCR] Bugaboos (fwd)

Hi All,
This may seem early to most of you but I have had several inquiries lately
so I thought I would pass it on.

It is still winter in the Bugaboo Spires. The logging road has only been
passable (4x4 only) for a couple of days and the last three KM into the Park
are closed due to construction from last fall. The trail is snow covered
all the way to the hut and is still threatened by serious avalanche hazard
from Eastpost Spire.

Historically, parties heading into the Bugs before mid to late June have
spent more time wallowing around in waist deep snow than climbing.

Cheers,
Marc Pichi
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Loose block on Diretissima

Caution! Diretissima, on Mt. Yamnuska. On the last pitch (8) below the
crux chock stone by about 3 meters, there are 2 blocks stacked on top
of one another, about volley ball sized, and perched precariously. I
repositioned them but there is really nowhere to put them otherwise,
(without sending them all the way down!, not advised)

It seemed in general the last pitch has more loose stone, than previous
ascents that I have made.

Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

[MCR] Icefields Conditions Synopsis

As the CAA has stopped functioning for season and not many people seem to be
going out into the hills and reporting about it, this might help out;

On a ski mountaineering tour May 13-15th in the Mt. Columbia zone;

Valley bottoms melted out, hiking shoes a boon. Intense and severe
radiation. Clear skies, overnight lows of –12, alpine highs of 12. Winds
L-Moderate from SW increasing with altitude. Some ridge top snow transport.
No new NATURAL avalanche activity observed. Soft Slabs triggered on Mt.
Columbia summit ridge (see "Mt. Columbia/Catleguard" MCR report for details
and pics).

Snowpack Synopsis

GLACIER CONDITIONS:
Valley to 1900m: Innovative business man could set up a slurpy stand
anywhere in snow leading to glaciers.
1900m to 2200m; widespread melt-freeze crust supportive in early a.m.,
softening in p.m. creating either troublesome breakable double penetration
but mostly nice soft crust/corn depending on aspect/elevation. Snow on the
lower reaches of glaciers melting out super fast, bridges beginning to sag,
crevaces going bearback, snowplugs exposed and yellowing. What snow there
is, is isothermal. Here water has percolated deep into bridges weakening
them significantly. Roping up advised at the very least on lower reaches of
glaciers.
2200m-3200m; winter conditions beginning to change. Over 4 meters of snow
with strong bridges, no sags, only the big gapers visible. Above 2800
meters 5-10 cm of settled HST (recent storm snow) can be found.

SLOPE CONDTIONS:
Icefields snowpack very variable with isolated weakness' persisting in the
high alpine. First area of concern is the particular widespread weakness,
susceptible to human trigger, on high alpine- lee & cross loaded- SE and NE
aspects.
-2800-3700 m, 10-15 cm of settled storm snow over 20-35cm of denser snow
over a 3-4 cm windcrust/melt-freeze depending on aspect. On wind affected
slopes, especially SE, a soft slab has formed with a poor bond above the
crust. Seemed well settled below crust.. N and I suspect NW aspects, were
much better, well settled/bonded layers with preserved 5-15cm surface
powder. These slopes are susceptible to surface sloughing/loose snow
avalanches- with trigger.
-Below 2800 meters warmer temps have had an overall settling effect on the
snowpack. Isolated pillows are still visible, caution on convex features.
Next cycle of lower elevation solar aspect wet slides not running yet.
-Non glacier vicinity slopes are warmer and need careful evaluation as they
have had several melt-freeze cycles and are either bomber corn or ready for
wet slide initiation depending on time of day/aspect.

Outlook:
High Alpine:
Caution; SE-NE soft slab on wind affected slopes. Do not be deceived by good
overnight freezes. Daytime heating is just now beginning to affect alpine
slopes below the surface snow and into mid-pack. A resulting slide or
cornice failure could trigger a secondary early season weakness' avalanche
especially in the lower alpine zones where they are more prevalent. I
encountered cornices over 3600 meters that had a glazed top with moist snow
15 cm down. Below 3000 meters in the shade, moist snow down 30cm . Since the
alpine is currently in that temperature transition time and just beginning
to react to the day after day warm temps, all those nasties, such as cornice
fall, rockfall, snowballing, falling mushrooms, will in my opinion make even
North facing gullies not so user friendly. Increase caution with higher
night-time low temps. Widespread cornice failure has not yet begun, but…
Low Alpine:
A new cycle of wet slide avalanches will likely begin happening on steeper S
aspects very soon below 2800 meters or so. There are however many excellent
solar aspect corn snow slopes to be skied and soft North aspects too.
Maintain caution on windloaded and steep convex rolls here. Rockfall
potential will become prevalent in the next while.

Treeline and Below treeline; Wretched blood sucking parasitic pests still
abundant

Recommendations: These are tumultuous transitional times. In the mountains
conditions are very variable; stop, think, consider, be more conservative
until things even out and become more predictable.

Eric Dumerac
Rocky Mountain Vertical
ACMG Assistant Ski/Alpine Guide, CAA Level II, CSIA Level II Ski Instructor.
Long time ski tourer, pioneering alpinist, rock, ice, and mixed climber at
your service.
403-609-2965 Canmore AB.


_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Coast skiing - Pantheon range May 8-11 - Spearhehad Traverse May 13

 

Just back from a week in the Coast range where excellent spring conditions were encountered – last weeks cooler temps and sunny skies allowed for great travel and powder/corn skiing conditions. This is a bit of old news as weather in BC has taken a turn for more summer like conditions (temps to reach 30 degrees in Revelstoke today).

 

We flew into the Pantheon Range (just north of Mt. Waddington) on Monday May 8 (delayed by one day due to weather that brought us 10 cm. of new snow) with Mike King of Whitesaddle Air Service under clear skies and temps of -6 at 8,000 ft. – we camped in Nirvana pass but I would suggest flying a little further south until you are underneath Mt. Bayamee which will allow you to ski downhill at the end of the day from most reasonable objectives. During the week we observed no new avalanche activity including solar aspects as the crust was staying intact throughout the day.

 

We had good crust formation overnight that continued to support through out the day and flew out Thursday night under clearing skies – Friday brought a brief period of snow showers (10 cm. on the road from Williams lake) as we drove to Whistler to ski the Spearhead. By Friday evening the skies had cleared and temps dropped overnight forming a strong supportive crust with up to 15 cm. of fresh powder on top on higher elevation north aspects. Blackcomb is closed so access is currently from the Whistler ski area. Observed a couple of older large cornice failures with large blocks that ran 2,000 ft, vertical in one case – other than that not much recent avalanche activity – though later in the week I am sure that the new snow started to run on the solar aspects. This is a great time to do the Spearhead as there is no heli ski traffic in the area and the Village is cheaper and way less crowded – something to keep in mind for the future.

 

As mentioned earlier this is old news and the more recent warm temps will require early starts to beat the daytime warming.

 

Have a great spring – time to get the rock shoes out today,

Cheers,

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide

Wednesday, May 10, 2006

[MCR] Victoria North Peak

Just talked to a party ascending north ridge of Victoria after leaving skis
at col. A party of 2 was following them. The lower party triggered a
cornice failure on the way up the ridge and was avalanched down the upper
Victoria glacier for a few hundred feet. They were miraculously unhurt and
later, everyone was able to ski down without further incident. The cornice
did not seem overhanging to the either party but was at least 4 meters
thick. Details are from a phone conversation so I hope I got the details
right.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, May 4, 2006

[MCR] Mt. Field

Skied up Mt. Field today. Excellent conditions with powder over crust on
the upper half and corn snow on the lower half. The road is melted out up
to the meeting of the waters so a bike would be useful. Skiing from there
with the exception of the switchbacks that are also melted out.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Tuesday, May 2, 2006

[MCR] Bow-Sherbrooke

Spent Sat thru Mon April 29-May 1 on the Wapta, starting at Bow and
ending at Sherbrooke.

The Bow approach is still holding together but could be gone soon I
suspect. Continued loose snow and wet slab avalanches in the moraines
on the approach to size 1.5 with rain showers to 2700m on Saturday.

Still very good coverage on the glaciers. Not a lot of thick crust
formation at upper elevations although that is changing with recent
warm temps/rain and now cooling. The surface hoar is 50 down and
reactive to compression tests. Still, I felt confident enough in
stability to take the shortcut under the east side of St Nick on
Saturday and to go over the Balfour High Col on Sunday with -3.5 degree
temps and no wind but with 6-10cm of new snow and no visibility.

-7.5 on Sunday at Scott Duncan and it was frozen hard although the
crusts were still only a few cm thick. We took the direct classic exit
rather than go under the cornices that were in the sun on Niles. Many
recent wet slab avalanches to size 3 on the west aspects in Sherbrooke
Valley (Sunday? no snow or rain effect on the debris and the sun came
out for a few hours on Sunday PM). Propagating a long way. I suspect on
either surface hoar or perhaps a crust.

Skating across Sherbrooke Lake. The trail out has a few bare patches
and is very narrow in spots. The Parks trail crew was in there cutting
out the recent blowdown and I suspect they will have cleared the trail
by Wednesday but the trail is not long for this world.

Fresh snow on the lawn in Banff this morning and wind transport off
Rundle but the skis have already got storage wax on them and I'm
packing for a road trip. There's gotta be summer somewhere south of
here.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
mark@alpinism.com
www.alpinism.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.